There is something I like to say about Arc’teryx products: “If you don’t like it, you’re probably using it wrong.” Of course, that’s not always true but I really do like the Gamma MX. That being said, the Gamma MX is designed as a lightweight, mixed conditions soft shell jacket that can be used as a mid layer.
The Gamma MX is made using Arc’teryx’s proprietary soft shell fabric called Fortius 2.0. Unlike other soft shell fabrics that are highly breathable, like Windstopper or Neoshell, Fortius 2.0 is somewhat air permeable by comparison; which is why it can be used as a soft shell or can be suitable as a mid layer.
If you’re not sure on the differences between “air permeability” and “breathability,” an air permeable layer allows air to move back and forth between the garment, a breathable layer allows moisture to move out of the garment. A mid layer must be both highly breathable and air permeable a shell layer must be breathable to prevent that moist clammy feeling but not air permeable to prevent heat loss from the wind. A soft shell differs from a hard shell because it sacrifices some wind and water resistance for greater breathability, so for high output activities like Nordic skiing or fast paced alpine climbing, soft shell may be a better choice.
As I mentioned before, the Gamma MX is suitable as a mid layer because of it’s higher air permeability than other soft shell jackets, making it a very versatile piece for days when the weather can’t decide what to do. However, the downside to this is when the wind picks up, you do feel the chill if you are using it as a stand-alone jacket.
I have had my Gamma MX for about 6 months now and I have gotten some solid use out of it and unfortunately, it is beginning to show signs of wear on the face fabric. It’s not bad, but I did expect a little bit more durability from Arc’teryx. I am not always nice to my gear though. It has survived several climbing trips in Joshua Tree, skiing, and it’s such a nice looking jacket, I still use it for my everyday jacket.
I was very impressed the first time I climbed in the Gamma. I did not feel encumbered by the jacket at all due to the excellent cut and stretch. I never felt overheated or clammy on cool days, and after wearing it in the rain a few times, I was still dry. The jacket sheds rain almost as well as my Alpha, but it’s much more comfortable. I have to say I really like the pocket configuration as well. It has 2 chest pockets and 2 hand pockets that do not get in the way of a climbing harness. I have not had any durability issues with the mesh pocket material, but they definitely let the cold in if you leave them open. As always, Arc’teryx did an amazing job on the hood. It works great with or without a helmet (even if you do look like a dork when you tighten up the storm hood without a helmet on!). One thing I would improve, however, are the cuffs. I wish they would be just a little more stretchy so the jacket would be easier to take off without the sleeves turning inside out and it would be easier to look at my watch.
Overall, I love the jacket. It is not perfect, but it comes close. If you’re looking to have just one jacket to get you through most of your adventures, the Gamma MX can hang and it should be on your short list. It’s burly, comfortable, not terribly expensive (by Arc’teryx standards), it’s versatile, and it looks damn good. For more information, check out Arc’teryx’s website, listed below. Next week I’ll be camping and climbing in Bishop, Ca where I will be testing out my new REI Magma sleeping bag, stay tuned for a trip report and a performance review on the bag.
http://www.arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?EN/Mens/Jackets/Gamma-MX-Hoody#Softshell
On Route 