Arc’teryx Sabre Jacket and Pants

It’s been 10 years since I bought new ski clothes so I figured I would treat myself and get the caviar. Here in Southern California, a day of skiing can bring a variety of temperatures ranging from sweltering to icy. As I have said in the past, I love soft shell garments, and that doesn’t change when I choose ski clothing. The Sabre jacket and pants are a Gore-Tex soft shell laminate that is completely waterproof and seam taped. However, they are not your standard stretchy, super-breathable soft shell garments. They are a lot more like hard shell.

It seems like Arc’teryx really focused on weather protection over breathability on the Sabre. That’s fine by me, but I still prefer a bit more breathability for ski gear. For here in Southern California, the light insulation lining the inside of the Sabre pants/jacket works great with just a light base layer underneath for most of the day without overheating. On cold nights and other areas, definitely throw another layer underneath for a little more warmth because the insulation is nothing more than a thin brushed poly liner.

The fit is pretty standard for ski gear: baggy and bulky; but I don’t have any problems with movement even when layered up. As always, Arc’teryx put an awesome storm hood so you can batten down the hatches when the winds pick up and the temps drop without loosing visibility or mobility even when you have a helmet on.

I have always hated powder skirts and rarely if ever used them until I got this jacket/pant combo. The snap closure keeps the powder skirt connected to the pants pretty well. The skirt still rides up a little bit, but for the most part, it stays in place and keeps you dry. It’s not very often that I get to enjoy a powder day, but for the 1 day I did get to enjoy this season, it worked very well. No snow down the pants or under the jacket, I’m happy. The integrated belt for the pants is great too. No problems with loosening, chafing, or discomfort.

The Sabre combo uses the new N80p-X face fabric that is supposed to be more durable, but I already had some wearing issues near the ankles of the pants after only a couple of uses. This might just be bad luck though because there are a couple of small cuts from ski edges just missing the Keprotec patch and cutting the softer fabric a little. Other than that, no signs of wear from all my crashes.
I also noticed that the face fabric does wet out fairly easily but also dries very quickly so it wasn’t really a problem.

The pocket configuration works great on both the jacket and the pants but I would like the jacket pockets to be a little bigger to fit skins or gloves better. If you’re strictly a resort skier/boarder, this probably doesn’t matter to you.

Unfortunately for me, the lift ticket pocket is on the opposite side of the scanner for the lifts I usually ski. Just a minor inconvenience that can be solved by the bigger cargo pockets and some dancing around at the scanner. I guess that’s normal anyway with those finicky things!

Overall, the Sabre combo is very cool but pretty pricy with some big pros and a good amount of smaller cons. I think this pairing will last me for a long time, but the best part about the combo is I’m not frustrated by my gear and I can focus on skiing or boarding rather than worry about failing gear. The Sabre combo can deliver hard shell weather protection with better breathability (although not quite soft shell breathability) in a pretty durable package. Of course, you look like a stylish dude that knows what he’s doing when you’re decked out in this stuff too.

La Sportiva TC Pro Climbing Shoe

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I admit it, I have a thing for La Sportiva. Since the release of the TC Pro, it seems to be everywhere. I see almost as many TCPs in Joshua Tree than Anasazis nowadays worn by all kinds of climbers crushing classics or racking up for their first trad lead. Even sport climbers are jumping on the TC Pro bandwagon. After climbing in these shoes for the better part of the last 12 months, it’s no wonder they are so popular. For any terrain short of severely overhanging terrain, the TCs would be a great choice. Over the summer, I climbed the infamous Serpentine, a run out, polished granite, 5.9 slab at Suicide Rock. For most of the climb your feet are pasted on micro edges or smearing blank nothing with 20 feet or more between bolts. I was a little nervous about choosing the TC Pro for this climb since they are a very stiff in the forefoot and use Vibram XS Edge rubber instead of XS Grip or the old standby, 5.10s Stealth, but they smeared and edged through all three low angle pitches without any major problems (just one slip when I got lazy on the last 5.7 section right off of the belay).

Across the valley lies Tahquitz, home of some of Southern California’s longest routes and best cracks. Thin toes, stiff toe box, and good ankle support make the TC Pro one of my favorite crack climbing shoes of all time. When climbing in a party of three on longer routes, you end up spending a lot of time in your shoes. Take along your TCs, and you won’t be worried about purple feet at the end of the day, provided you sized them correctly. You can jam away in glorious splitter heaven with good protection for your feet. They don’t make jamming painless, especially if you use bad form, but they will cushion the ride and keep you focused on the climbing, not your aching toes. The P3 (Permanent Pivot Platform) works great for maintaining the shoe’s fit even after a year of climbing in them.

My local sport climbing crag, the Riverside Quarry, is loaded with slightly overhanging routes on granite. When you think of a shoe you would sport climb with, the TC Pro is not the first shoe you would think of by a long shot, but I take them there anyway and they continue to impress. I still prefer a slightly down turned or cambered shoe like the Miura for climbing at the Quarry, but I have no performance issues with the shoes on any route that I am capable of climbing there.

I have one gripe with the rand design, however. The TC Pro was designed to be the ultimate all-day crack climbing shoe but I have noticed a common problem at the back of the toe box where the rand is pealing away from the shoe. This is exactly the spot where the shoe would come in contact with the edge of a crack if you had a solid jam. I have spoken with several other climbers and they had the same issue. It’s not terrible and it does not affect the performance, but I can’t help but wonder if there may be a better design. That being said, there are no stitches or tears at all even after a year of jamming in coarse JTree, Yosemite, and Idyllwild cracks.

In the store, size TC Pros with a toes flat or slightly bent fit and no tighter if you want to be comfortable. They are a leather shoe, but the synthetic lining helps keep them from stretching too much so don’t worry about them stretching out so much that they lose performance. There is definitely an initial break in period for these just like any shoe, but especially for extra-stiff shoes. If you have not been climbing in similar shoes before, the bottom of your feet will be sore until you get used to the shoe so don’t panic when your feet hurt after dropping $180 on a pair of climbing shoes. Give it some time, climb a lot and you’ll be used to it in no time!

REI Pinnacle 35 Pack

The REI Pinnacle 35 pack was designed as an alpine climbing, ski mountaineering, and cragging backpack. This pack has some huge plusses and a few minuses. You can also use the pack for day hikes or even an overnight if you had to carry heavier gear.

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I personally use the Pinnacle mainly as a crag pack in Joshua Tree and for the occasional alpine route. The 35 liter volume is spread out between 2 compartments, a large main compartment and a smaller front crampon pocket. The main compartment is the perfect size for my trad rack, quick draws, a set of alpine draws/slings, harness, helmet, shoes, and various cordage and the front crampon pocket works well for small items like energy snacks or a small water bottle. On top of the pack, there is a sweet rope carry system that keeps your rope nice and neat for the approach and makes loading and unloading the rope really easy. The material used for the pack is really burly ballistic nylon, so far no problems with areas away from zippers (more on that later) even after lots of abrasion on J Tree grit, and Sierra ice, snow, granite, dirt, and mud, ice axes, crampons, and being over stuffed with other semi-sharp climbing gear. Of course, there are signs of wear, but the pack is holding up well.

I do have a couple of things I was not so happy about with the Pinnacle though. The hipbelt is pretty stiff and uncomfortable for long approaches, especially when the pack is fully loaded. Since the pack only has a frame sheet and a fairly light metal frame, you really want to keep the pack weight as low as you can, otherwise you end up carrying much of the weight on your shoulders rather than your hips. I ended up exchanging my first Pinnacle because the crampon pocket zipper tore after just a couple months of use. So far, I have not had any problems with the replacement, but only time will tell. A little bit larger crampon pocket that expands to a more open shape would help out there. The pack itself feels a little bulky compared to other alpine packs with a lot wide design and wider straps and hipbelt than most aline packs so it can feel a little awkward on very steep alpine terrain.

For the price, you can’t beat the REI’s Pinnacle packs. With the exception of the crampon pocket zipper, the pack has stood up to everything I could throw at it. If you’re looking for a solid crag pack for a full day of gear or a budget conscious alpine pack and you can live with a bulkier design (it will be an advantage for some, especially as a crag pack or for bigger climbers), the Pinnacle should make your short list.

Arc’teryx Gamma MX Softshell

There is something I like to say about Arc’teryx products: “If you don’t like it, you’re probably using it wrong.” Of course, that’s not always true but I really do like the Gamma MX. That being said, the Gamma MX is designed as a lightweight, mixed conditions soft shell jacket that can be used as a mid layer.

The Gamma MX is made using Arc’teryx’s proprietary soft shell fabric called Fortius 2.0. Unlike other soft shell fabrics that are highly breathable, like Windstopper or Neoshell, Fortius 2.0 is somewhat air permeable by comparison; which is why it can be used as a soft shell or can be suitable as a mid layer.

If you’re not sure on the differences between “air permeability” and “breathability,” an air permeable layer allows air to move back and forth between the garment, a breathable layer allows moisture to move out of the garment. A mid layer must be both highly breathable and air permeable a shell layer must be breathable to prevent that moist clammy feeling but not air permeable to prevent heat loss from  the wind. A soft shell differs from a hard shell because it sacrifices some wind and water resistance for greater breathability, so for high output activities like Nordic skiing or fast paced alpine climbing, soft shell may be a better choice.

As I mentioned before, the Gamma MX is suitable as a mid layer because of it’s higher air permeability than other soft shell jackets, making it a very versatile piece for days when the weather can’t decide what to do. However, the downside to this is when the wind picks up, you do feel the chill if you are using it as a stand-alone jacket.

I have had my Gamma MX for about 6 months now and I have gotten some solid use out of it and unfortunately, it is beginning to show signs of wear on the face fabric. It’s not bad, but I did expect a little bit more durability from Arc’teryx. I am not always nice to my gear though. It has survived several climbing trips in Joshua Tree, skiing, and it’s such a nice looking jacket, I still use it for my everyday jacket.

I was very impressed the first time I climbed in the Gamma. I did not feel encumbered by the jacket at all due to the excellent cut and stretch. I never felt overheated or clammy on cool days, and after wearing it in the rain a few times, I was still dry. The jacket sheds rain almost as well as my Alpha, but it’s much more comfortable. I have to say I really like the pocket configuration as well. It has 2 chest pockets and 2 hand pockets that do not get in the way of a climbing harness. I have not had any durability issues with the mesh pocket material, but they definitely let the cold in if you leave them open. As always, Arc’teryx did an amazing job on the hood. It works great with or without a helmet (even if you do look like a dork when you tighten up the storm hood without a helmet on!). One thing I would improve, however, are the cuffs. I wish they would be just a little more stretchy so the jacket would be easier to take off without the sleeves turning inside out and it would be easier to look at my watch.

Overall, I love the jacket. It is not perfect, but it comes close. If you’re looking to have just one jacket to get you through most of your adventures, the Gamma MX can hang and it should be on your short list. It’s burly, comfortable, not terribly expensive (by Arc’teryx standards), it’s versatile, and it looks damn good. For more information, check out Arc’teryx’s website, listed below. Next week I’ll be camping and climbing in Bishop, Ca where I will be testing out my new REI Magma sleeping bag, stay tuned for a trip report and a performance review on the bag.

http://www.arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?EN/Mens/Jackets/Gamma-MX-Hoody#Softshell

Let’s Get Started

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Let me tell you a little about myself so you know what to expect in the future. My name is Andrew, I am a business and marketing student at Cal State Fullerton, I run a small handplane company called FishHook Handplanes, and I work as a camping and climbing sales specialist for REI. My job allows me to try out a lot of gear so hopefully there will be a nice long list of gear for you to read about. I will do my best to be fair, though I do have some brands that I tend to favor.

My philosophy is to be lightweight but prepared. I tend to be pretty rough on my gear and I have high standards for what makes a piece of quality gear. That being said, there are a lot of different philosophies when it comes to gear. I get to hear about all kinds of styles at work when customers share their ideas. I will take this into account when I review a piece of gear.

Here in Southern California, we have a TON of opportunities to get outside. We are fortunate to have lots of world class climbing nearby, good waves all over the coast most the year, lots of trails and the best backpacking you can do anywhere in the Sierras as well as decent local hikes in all different environment which means lots of opportunities to try out gear in lots of different situations. I hope you find the information helpful and that you enjoy reading the blog! The first gear review: the Arc’teryx Gamma MX softshell jacket.